Climbing of Mt. Pumori (7,161m), a pyramid-shaped Himalayan peak located 8 kilometers west of Mt. Everest in Nepal, demands technical skill and physical prowess. Renowned as a challenging climb, it serves as a vital training ground before attempting Mt. Everest. Summiting Pumori offers breathtaking views of Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Everest, and the surrounding peaks. The expedition kicks off with a flight to Lukla from Kathmandu, followed by a 9 to 10-day trek to the 5,300m base camp.
Climbing begins after two nights at the base camp, progressing through three camps at strategic altitudes. The route involves traversing glaciers, a snow wall climbs, and navigating ice walls and crevasses. The preferred South-East Ridge route is commonly used by expedition teams during the spring season. The Summit Force hosts the Mt. Pumori Expedition annually in spring, providing essential permits, logistics, and experienced guides. Contact The Summit Force for more information.
Highlights
Location: Pumori is located on the Nepal-Tibet border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas, near Mount Everest.
Elevation: The summit of Pumori stands at 7,161 meters (23,494 feet), making it a popular choice for experienced mountaineers looking to test their skills at high altitude.
Challenges: Climbing Pumori presents various challenges, including technical climbing sections, crevasses, icefalls, and unpredictable weather conditions.
Scenery: The views from Pumori are breathtaking, offering panoramic vistas of neighboring peaks like Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse.
Experience Required: Climbing Pumori requires previous experience in high-altitude mountaineering, ice climbing, and technical skills due to the challenging nature of the terrain.
Overall, Pumori is a remarkable peak that attracts seasoned climbers seeking a significant challenge and rewarding mountaineering experience in the Himalayas.
Best time for Pumori climbing
Pre-monsoon Season (Spring): The best time to climb Mt. Pumori is during the pre-monsoon season, which typically falls between April and May. During this period, the weather is relatively stable with clear skies, making it ideal for climbing.
Post-monsoon Season (Autumn): Another good time to climb Mt. Pumori is during the post-monsoon season, which usually occurs between late September and October. The weather is cool and stable during this time, providing good climbing conditions.
Both seasons offer favorable weather conditions with minimal precipitation, allowing climbers to have clear visibility and safe climbing conditions. It is important to plan your climb according to these seasons to ensure a successful and safe expedition.
